Photographs by Allita Barefoot
An interesting geographical feature of the Yucatán is related to limestone and water. Cenotes are natural pits – sinkholes actually – that expose the ground water when the limestone bedrock collapses. The region is believed to hold somewhere around 10,000 or more cenotes. The Mayan are believed to have used these massive pits as wells and, also, unsurprisingly, for ritual sacrifices. In 2023, an exploration of underwater rivers and cenotes by divers and researchers in the Yucatán discovered nearly 30 skulls in a cenote. Other similar explorations in the past have yielded a variety of human remains in the same type underground waters. So naturally, it should come as no surprise that we decided to swim in not one but two different cenotes and a fully underground, semi-flooded cave system called Río Secreto.
Río Secreto or Secret River is a natural reserve protected by the Mexican government. The entire underwater cave system is about 26 miles long and is basically a connection of partially flooded caverns that contain living stalactites, stalagmites, stalagmites, pisoliths and helictites. This cave system is also home to bats, fish, spiders and a variety of other life forms (not including the tourists). Only about 10% of the entire cave system is open to the public and the process for accessing the area is well-organized and controlled. We were provided with all the necessary gear: shoes, wet suits, life jackets, etc. and services: changing area, toilet and showers, refreshments, tour guides with flashlights, etc.
Entrance into both cenotes we explored was very well designed with steps and handrails. In one case, you could elect to just jump right in, which Allita naturally did and then regretted because her ears popped from the immediate underwater pressure. If you have never been swimming in an underwater cavern or cave, the experience is truly unique. The water is cool and quite refreshing. Sound bounces along the walls and carries across the surface easily – even a small drop can echo loudly. It is quite dark at times and necessary that you are a good swimmer and not claustrophobic. The spaces through which you must navigate without touching any of the living rock are quite narrow and can be tricky to balance. You also have to remember you are not the only living creature in this cool, dark, bottomless pit. That thought alone can really get the heart pumping. If ever there was a place for a horror flick about something in the water…
Another interesting activity we enjoyed while visiting Quintana Roo was snorkeling with the Sea Turtles! In Akumal, very near Tulum, there is an archaeological zone where the water is almost completely clear and an area is zoned off for snorkeling. In this area, you can see many fish, including a beautiful ray who surprised even our guide, plant life and, of course, sea turtles. Again, we were provided with all the gear necessary: wet suits, life jackets, snorkels, etc. and services: changing area, toilet and shower, refreshments, tour guides who also swam with us, etc.
Photos in all bodies of water on this trip were taken by Allita Barefoot using a submersible cell phone case.