(Chicken Pizza)

The journey to visit the world famous Chichén Itza took us from Quintana Roo to Yucatán State.

We left the resort by bus in the very early morning hours and enjoyed a lovely ride through the lush jungle forest of inner Mexico – the same deep green areas we passed on our arrival flight.  The early ride to the site was full of energy and chatter – everyone excited and impatient to see this massive archaeological marvel of Mayan design.  The resort had made the arrangement privately for this tour and also provided us with a tasty bag breakfast and a variety of drink options including coffee, tea, juice and water.  We sat in our cushy seats and watched the countryside pass by while we listened to our tour guides in both English and Spanish as they educated us on the Mayan language, math, culture and some history.  

Chichén Itzá is one of the biggest Mayan cities.  The inner city itself is approximately two square miles with even more residential structures outside the city walls and well into the nearby jungle.  The ruins are managed by the Mexican Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia (National Institute of Anthropology and History).  According to our guide, this is one of the most visited places in Mexico.  The city itself hosts a huge variety of outdoor vendors and artisans, some bathrooms, restaurants, and a gift shop at the entrance.  It is a sprawling site filled with a huge number of ruins, structures, statues, pathways, platforms and temples surrounded by a massive stone wall and nestled in a jungle forest the perimeter of which is so thick with vegetation you can scarcely see through it.  

Our guides were both of Mayan descent.  They were able to explain the name Chichén Itzá as “mouth of the well Itzá” where Itzá refers to the people who lived in this area.  One of our guides was part of a team who explored the cenotes at Chichén and showed us underwater photos he had taken.  He also explained that in addition to the four cenotes visible at the site, there is also a hidden cenote under the massive Temple of Kukulkan.  

While at the site, we elected to tour with the Spanish-speaking group so that we could practice our lingual skills.  Further, we rationalized that the content of the tour might be different when given in their native tongue.  When we came back to the bus later in the evening, we discovered we were not mistaken in that assumption.  Our guide explained the various structures as we toured the massive ruined city: Temple of the Warriors, Temple of Xtoloc, Akab Dzib, Cacacol, the North Temple, the Temple of the Bearded Man, the Platform of Venus and many others. 

We learned about games played at the Great Ball Court where competitors found honor in death.  On each side of the massive court are walled platforms that stand nearly 30 feet high.  In the center of the walls are rings carved with the image of Kukulkan.  All around the inside of the court are benches with sculpted panels containing images of what may have occurred in these games. In one image, a player is decapitated and spewing from his bloody neck is streams of snakes.  Many of the images appear to be battle scenes. We learned about sacrifices at the Sacred Cenote and how those who were selected might have been forced to climb the 365 stairs to the very top of the Temple of Kukulkan, barefooted and knowing well their fate.  The Skull Platform is near the Great Ball Court. The skulls appear to be stacked in tall vertical columns.  Nearby is another platform called the Eagles and the Jaguars platform where sculpted images show eagles and jaguars eating human hearts. Yes, Chichén Itzá is a tad macabre. 

Rows of columns stretch along the front of the Temple of the Warriors and some of the columns even appear to be sculpted to resemble warriors.  These ruins offer some evidence of the grandiose ancient structures that once existed in this massive city.  The murals found inside the Temple of the Warriors were of great interest to Allita as our guide explained that many famous Mayan scholars believe they depict images showing the Mayans had contact with the Vikings.  Allita is, of course, a great fan of all things Viking.

The Mercado, or market, is a massive structure near another of the many temples inside the city walls. Las Monjas, Osorio and the Castillo temple (Temple of Kukulkan) all sit on leveled areas while the remainder of the city ebbs and flows over uneven hilly terrain. The many buildings on the site are all connected by a network of stone-paved roadways that criss-cross all over the city and, in some places, appear to vanish into the trees.  Some of the buildings appear to have been originally painted with faint glimpses of color still visible in some areas. Another interesting fact we learned was that Mayans had engineered structures for moving water across the ancient city – the same types of aqueducts that ancient Romans may have once used for that purpose. 

Finally, the massive Temple of Kulkulkan stands in the center of the Great North Platform.  We found it quite difficult to photograph as it stands nearly 100 feet tall and 180 feet wide. At the very top of the pyramid sits the 20 foot tall temple itself and inside that temple is the Jaguar Throne which is red and contains jade ornamentation.  Under the temple of Kulkulkan, Mexican archaeologists discovered a staircase that led to another temple underground.  According to our guide, at the time of the spring and fall equinox, the northwest corner of the temple pyramid casts shadows that give the appearance of a serpent slithering down the steps. Kulkulkan is the feathered serpent God the Mayans worshipped.  Fun Fact: The number of steps to the top of the temple is the same number of days in the Mayan calendar.

Believe it or not, we did not see all of Chichén Itzá during our all-day tour.  We tried to but there was just too much there to see, too much to learn, and too many other people, that navigating through it all in one day was just not possible.  After many hours, we left the federal park, cooled off in a cenote, ate dinner in a small town with a lovely old church and a wood-fired oven pizzeria, and finally relaxed on the return ride back to the resort. 

Photographs by Allita Barefoot

An interesting geographical feature of the Yucatán is related to limestone and water.  Cenotes are natural pits – sinkholes actually – that expose the ground water when the limestone bedrock collapses.  The region is believed to hold somewhere around 10,000 or more cenotes.  The Mayan are believed to have used these massive pits as wells and, also, unsurprisingly, for ritual sacrifices.  In 2023, an exploration of underwater rivers and cenotes by divers and researchers in the Yucatán discovered nearly 30 skulls in a cenote.  Other similar explorations in the past have yielded a variety of human remains in the same type underground waters.  So naturally, it should come as no surprise that we decided to swim in not one but two different cenotes and a fully underground, semi-flooded cave system called Río Secreto.  

Río Secreto or Secret River is a natural reserve protected by the Mexican government.  The entire underwater cave system is about 26 miles long and is basically a connection of partially flooded caverns that contain living stalactites, stalagmites, stalagmites, pisoliths and helictites.  This cave system is also home to bats, fish, spiders and a variety of other life forms (not including the tourists).  Only about 10% of the entire cave system is open to the public and the process for accessing the area is well-organized and controlled.  We were provided with all the necessary gear: shoes, wet suits, life jackets, etc. and services: changing area, toilet and showers, refreshments, tour guides with flashlights, etc. 

Entrance into both cenotes we explored was very well designed with steps and handrails.  In one case, you could elect to just jump right in, which Allita naturally did and then regretted because her ears popped from the immediate underwater pressure.  If you have never been swimming in an underwater cavern or cave, the experience is truly unique. The water is cool and quite refreshing. Sound bounces along the walls and carries across the surface easily – even a small drop can echo loudly. It is quite dark at times and necessary that you are a good swimmer and not claustrophobic. The spaces through which you must navigate without touching any of the living rock are quite narrow and can be tricky to balance.  You also have to remember you are not the only living creature in this cool, dark, bottomless pit.  That thought alone can really get the heart pumping.  If ever there was a place for a horror flick about something in the water… 

Another interesting activity we enjoyed while visiting Quintana Roo was snorkeling with the Sea Turtles!  In Akumal, very near Tulum, there is an archaeological zone where the water is almost completely clear and an area is zoned off for snorkeling.  In this area, you can see many fish, including a beautiful ray who surprised even our guide, plant life and, of course, sea turtles.  Again, we were provided with all the gear necessary: wet suits, life jackets, snorkels, etc. and services: changing area, toilet and shower, refreshments, tour guides who also swam with us, etc.  

Photos in all bodies of water on this trip were taken by Allita Barefoot using a submersible cell phone case. 

Photographs by Allita Barefoot

Tulum is the nearest largest city to the south of where we were staying.  We first visited Tulum for groceries and just a quick walk-about in the city to get our bearings.  Our next visit to Tulum was a private tour of the Mayan walled city ruins located on the cliffs overlooking the Caribbean Sea.  

When we first arrived at the national park that houses these Mayan ruins, we were greeted by the color and beauty of the local scene. Brightly-colored decorations adorned buildings and walkways, painted statues and caricatures were standing along the street, and in the square, there were performance artists entertaining the crowds of curious tourists.  

The walk from the parking area to the park entrance was included in our guided tour and we learned much about the history of the park, the flora and even fauna of the local area.  

As it turned out, our guide was a degreed scientist with avid interest in history, archaeology and botany.  Considering these three topics are interesting to each of us (Mom – botany, Allita – history, myself – archaeology), we were delighted to spend the day with a like-minded local who welcomed our endless questions and was happy to wander anywhere and everywhere around the park for hours.   

One point of note: as we three hail from Tucson where the average relative humidity is below 25%, it took some time for us to adjust to 75-80% humidity and 90 degree temperatures.  In Tulum, the outside temperatures can feel 10 degrees warmer from just the humidity alone! With that much water vapor in the air, even the shade offers little solace. So there should be no surprise that we appear a little wilted in our photos. It was a fun day that we greatly enjoyed and would happily repeat – even in the tropical conditions.

The ruins at Tulum are massive and sprawling. Even with advanced research, we were unprepared for the full scale of the park. Nearly the entire ancient Mayan city remains preserved and available for viewing. There are multiple temples, platforms, terraces, shrines, and other structures laid out in precise rows and all surrounded by massive gated walls with watch towers similar to European cities we have previously toured. The “castillo” in the center was so like a traditional royal castle, elevated far above the other structures with a long sweeping staircase to the top – commanding attending and demanding humility and respect.  You can easily see it among all the photographs we took of the main site.

Another interesting observation was the manner of construction of the structures and walls themselves. Mayans built many pyramid-shaped temples constructed in layers on a base platform that was slightly raised above the ground (step). Their buildings had narrow doorways and on the eastern side, where the direct sun shown without relief, few small windows to allow light but discourage heat.  

The city itself was constructed on a slight hill with steep cliffs leading to the Caribbean Sea to the east.  The rocky “beach” at the base of the cliffs would have easily deterred any water-based entrance by unwanted visitors in the past. Pathways through the ruins are well-maintained and easily traversed allowing you access to all areas.  Although she did not specifically require it, my mother did bring her walking stick to help navigate uneven ground, and there were plenty of places under the canopy of the jungle trees for us to rest for a moment in the shade, if needed. 

All-in-all, the visit to Tulum was enjoyed by everyone.

_{Photos by Allita Barefoot}

May 2023 found the three Barefoot adventurers traveling to Latin America – specifically Quintana Roo, Mexico in the area of Playa Paraiso where we would spend an entire week enjoying the luxurious Vidanta Rivera Maya resort and exploring all things Mayan and Mexican.

Located in the Yucatán peninsula with the Gulf on the north and the Caribbean to the east, the Mexican state of Quintana Roo is home to the popular tourist destination, Cancun.  For this trip, we flew American Airlines from Tucson to Dallas Fort Worth and then on to Cancún. 

Because of delays in Tucson, we had to literally RUN to make our connecting flight in DFW.  I had previously expressed some concerns but was assured that there was enough time between the two legs.  NOTE: when in doubt, always err on the safe side – plan for failure – and give yourself PLENTY of time for connections.  At this point, you would think I would already do this as a routine or habit.  After all, for us, travel is almost as natural as breathing.  Yeah….no. 

The flight to Cancún was lovely.  We anxiously peered out the plane window to spy the Gulf waters.  As we live in Tucson, water is always a surprise and joy to witness.  The terrain was breath-taking and our photos don’t nearly do it justice. Long swaths of undisturbed jungle and forest rolling over hills and through valleys as far as the eye could see. This is absolutely not the same Mexico we know from years of visiting Cabo San Lucas. It’s too green!

The sprawling metropolis of Cancún was quite a surprise for our marveling eyes. Having only previously visited Cancún by cruise ship, this aerial panorama clearly revealed just how many people call this area home.  Quintana Roo is a thriving, growing state in Mexico with new hotels and resorts in constant construction. At the time of our visit, the new Tren Maya or intercity railway spanning nearly 1,000 miles along the Yucatán, was still under construction. Everyone we met was particularly excited for the new rail system and looking forward to the grand opening which occurred in December 2023.

We pre-booked private transportation from the Cancun airport to our resort, Vidanta Riveria Maya. This is a practice we have developed over the last 20 years of traveling to Baja California Sur. Navigating the airport in Mexico can be tricky. You can easily find yourself overwhelmed if you aren’t familiar with customs, immigration, and time share salesmen.  That said, we arrived at the resort, and spent the rest of our first day exploring. 

The Vidanta is a lovely resort with a large campus and multiple buildings all connected by roadway, including a free train that shuttles residents, and walking bridges and pathways with lovely decorations, breath-taking views, gorgeous flora, and fascinating wildlife.  We saw native birds, massive iguanas, coatimundi, squirrels, flamingos, bats, crocodiles, agouti, and a wide variety of sea life (in the tide pools) and insects – all without even leaving our resort!!  

The resort hosts multiple lovely pools – including a very large pool right at the beach – with nearby restaurants, shops, activity centers, and services. We felt like we had entered our own little private oasis where everything we could possibly need was right at our fingertips.  The Mayan influence is visible and apparent everywhere in the resort.  One pool even has a giant statue of Quetzalcóatl, the feathered serpent god, also known as Kukulkan.  

On the beach are several piers that stretch out over the water.  Guests can reserve water activity equipment and explore the beach at will.  The resort does provide life guards during the busy hours – as we have found is common for family-friendly resorts in Mexico. 

Allita was delighted with the tide pools as she found them teeming with life; much like pools we have explored many times in the past at our residence on the western coast: urchins, limpets, hermit crabs, needlefish, sea grasses, etc.  The Caribbean water felt a little warmer to us, at first touch, so we were surprised to find many of the same creatures living in these shallow biomes. 

In the evening, the resort comes alive with fun, decorative lighting hanging in the trees along the walking paths, and the sounds of music and laughter mingle with the quiet of the dark jungle nearby. Although we did explore some of the resort on our first night, it took us almost the entire week to see everything available and venture the entire campus.