On Sunday, 21 June 2020, Spain reopened with all health regions at a safety level 3. For the first time since the borders were closed on 16 March 2020, citizens are now able to travel domestically to almost* any location within Spain. The external border is also opened now to some few international travelers but with restrictions and a fair amount of controls. For us, this newly restored freedom is an opportunity to stretch our legs, spread our wings and head out on a new adventure! After 100 days of confinement, not only to Barcelona but to Pedrables, as lovely as it is, we are thrilled to finally be headed back on the road again.

To be honest, since late April, Mom and I have been tentatively exploring the idea of a quick trip somewhere. Brainstorming some ideas. Wishfully thinking aloud without putting too much hope into it or making any real commitment, emotional or financial. You see, we had such a lovely adventure planned for Spring break. Just in time for the Easter processions, we would fly to Seville and drive to Cádiz to see the Cathedral then on to Tarifa, the southern-most point of Europe. From Gibraltar, Allita and I would take a hovercraft to Cueta (an autonomous Spanish city in Africa!), return to the mainland and spend some time in a resort in Malagá, then on to the magnificent Alhambra in Granada and through the Sierra Nevadas to Almería. Finally, we would return to Barcelona by way of Alicante and Valencia, driving up the eastern coastline through Tarragona and Sitges. The grand tour of Spain! We were so excited. We had planned it for months and were ready to go. Flights booked, car and hotel reserved and suitcases packed! Then, BANG! The reality of the pandemic hit us with a slap in the face. Spain implemented the most draconian quarantine measures in all of Europe. We were grounded. Literally. Therefore, until recently we just weren’t emotionally ready to make new plans and start seriously thinking about traveling again. We were still licking our wounds from our last quashed adventure dreams. And, there was still a degree of fear pervasive in the atmosphere in Spain, in Barcelona and also, here, in Pedrables. No, we weren’t really planning – we were just “what-if-ing” and “suppose-ing”. Just enough musing to keep us sane, until we started to see light at the end of the tunnel.

Sometime in May, Mom and I realized that the quarantine situation here would eventually come to an end. The daily new case numbers in Spain were slowly but steadily decreasing and hospitals were becoming less burdened. We were getting this thing under control, so to speak, and there was a plan put forth by the government on how we might ease our way out of our lockdown. A plan for how we might begin to attempt to restore some freedom and get back to a different level of living. Maybe even travel again. So, after much discussion and consideration, Mom and I decided that the best, first, post-virus adventure for us would be a camping trip.

We are seasoned campers. In fact, we excel at camping. When Mom was injured in 2013, camping was our respite – it was a treat for Mom, Allita and I to pack up and go camping for a weekend. Granted, I had to do most of the work as Mom was still in a full leg brace and barely walked with the help of a hemi, and Allita had just turned 5. Still, the peace of Madera Canyon called to us and we relished our time outdoors, watching the birds, sitting in the cool shade, and just breathing the fresh, clean air.

We were starting to feel that same pull again – that same call from the outdoors. As it turns out, we came to Spain with a decent amount of camping supplies. Not that we ever planned to camp in a campground per se. We had actually been concerned that whatever apartment we rented would not be furnished, so we brought (and shipped) all the items we felt we might need to live, temporarily in an unfurnished apartment. Inflatable mattresses, collapsable bowls and cups, camping chairs, camping tables, linens, etc. Except for a tent, we had all we needed. Amazingly enough. It’s almost like this camping trip was fated – if you believe in that sort of thing.

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So, we ordered a massive tent online on Amazon.es. We didn’t exactly know how big it would be when we bought it – that’s part of the adventure included in shopping in a foreign language – nor that it would come sans floor. But who needs a floor when you’re camping? Just another thing to try to keep clean. Now we didn’t have to worry about “tracking in” dirt and debris or taking our shoes off and putting them on again each time we can and went. Four walls and a roof and we were ready.

We started making lists and packing things into boxes for “when the time comes”. As more time passed and this day drew nearer, we looked into rental vehicles. Yes, you can rent an RV. Actually, there are lots of rental trailer and RV options. But did we actually need a traveling home? We have a tent (of sorts) and we have furniture. We only really need a car. Right? But, what if it rained? We should rent a van. Does CostCo rent vans? Yes indeed. Check that box.

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The next part of the process was to plan the actual trip. Where would we go? Mom and I have been reading about Costa Brava for years. It’s literally just up the road. So, since we are driving and school is officially over (19 June was the last day of online classes), why shouldn’t we go up the coast? Let’s just drive. I did some research and found a fun place to spend a couple days and then messaged them for some details on when they will reopen. 25 June was their first day back in business. Ok, so our trip needed to start after 25 June. We could handle that.

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Allita has also been learning about Salvador Dalí, the famous Catalan artist with the wild mustache. A bizarre little man who lived in Cadaqués near his family’s beach house but also owned property (now his official museum and where he is buried!) in Figueres (where he was born) about an hour west and inland. Cadaqués is very near the eastern-most point of the Iberian peninsula. That would be in keeping with our previous trip across the Iberian peninsula (western-most in Portugal, see Our View of Portugal) and future plans (southern-most in Tarifa, northern-most in Galicia). Mom wants to see the house in Cadaqués but I want to see the Dalí museum in Figures. So that is where we plan to depart from the coast and start inland and eventually our return.

Allita is a huge fan of all things ocean. It’s because of her love of the beach that we are taking the scenic coastal route. I am not a fan of sand and surf and Mom is ambivalent. But, because I want Allita to enjoy as much of this adventure as possible, I have agreed that the first three days will be seaside. We will wind our way along the coastal highway – keeping in mind that Costa Brava literally means wild or rough coast. The distance we travel the first day is quite short and should only take about an hour but will likely require 5-6 hours or longer given the curvaceous pathways and the tendency of my passengers to want to stop and “look”. Possibly we will also pause a bit now and again to play in the sand or check out a castle or two.

The last three days, however, will be in the mountains. I love the mountains and Mom was born in the mountains of North Carolina so she is also partial to that landscape. Thus, from Figueres, we will head to a little mountain campground I have discovered, where the owner is willing to hold a site for us without any deposit and only an email as our commitment (how refreshing!). Its located very near the river, El Fluvià, in the mountains and promises to be cool and lovely with fresh air and lots of outdoor activities. The route has us passing very near the Parc Natural de la Zona Volcànica de la Garrotxa (volcanic cones, lava flows, etc.) and the Santa Margarida Volcano, which is sadly extinct. Then, we will wander our way through more of the mountains and finally into Manresa to walk along the medieval street excavated under the city. How fun! Finally, we will drive through Sabadell and the mountain tunnel back to Pedrables.

So, now we have a plan and, once again, we are packed and ready to roll. I am literally counting down the hours until Monday 29 June. In true Willie Nelson style, “I can’t wait to be on the road again”!

* As of 28 June 2020, a few health regions have re-implemented lockdown status because of small outbreaks. Four regions in Aragon near the Catalonian border closed on 22 June due to an outbreak related to seasonal fruit pickers that resulted in 18 cases, some of which were in Catalonia. (news article)

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Today is the summer solstice celebration, Sant Joan, in Barcelona.  According to the locals, this marks the longest day of the year.  The period of the most light, which is one of the reasons why they celebrate this occasion with fire.  They call Sant Joan’s eve (23 June) “Nit del Foc” or Fire Night. There are fireworks (petards), bonfires (fogueres) and occasionally a correfoc (see Festa Major- Day 3).  The locals drink Cava (sparkling wine) and eat Pan de Coca (sweet bread with cream or sweet dried fruits).  There is music, dancing and a variety of merriment all through the night.  Everyone warns us that we will not be sleeping much this evening.  For me personally, this is usually the time of year when I take a moment to reflect on the progress of the year to date and the status of my life.  It happens that my birthday is also around the time of the estival solstice.  Thus, the process of aging another year generally gives me pause and motivation to pontificate.   This year is no exception.  

I have to say that 2020 started off exceptionally well for us.  You will remember that we celebrated New Year’s Day with the start of our Greek adventure (See a Greek New Year).  It was colder and wetter than we expected, but we still managed to enjoy all the sights we wanted to see in Athens and every moment of our time there together.  The weather in Barcelona in January was chilly but sunny with only periodic rain and we were frequently able to stroll around outdoors and explore the neighborhood.  One trip through Pedrables, we stopped at a nursery and purchased many plants, including lettuce, that would become a vital part of our patio garden in the coming months.  On the same trip, we shared a picnic lunch near the lovely local monastery and enjoyed ice cream treats on the walk back home.  Allita and I discovered a Mr. Park playground with trampolines just around the corner from the house.  She practiced several times until she managed to repeatedly perform a complete flip and land on her feet.  Ta Da! We spent one entire Saturday visiting the Hospital of Saint Paul (Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau) and then walked on to the Sagrada Familia and had another picnic lunch.  Another Saturday, we spent hours at Montjuic completing an exciting scavenger hunt that took us all over the hilltop fortress and through the gardens. We took a weekend trip to Lisbon in late February (see Our View of Portugal).  A few days later, we celebrated Sant Medir with the locals and Allita followed the parade, collecting as much candy as her bag could hold.  In another few days, Allita and I took a ski trip to Andorra (see Let’s Go Skiing).  Looking back, I suppose that’s about the time our year started to go a little off-track.  

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13 March 2020 started like any other day.  We ate breakfast.  Allita and I walked together to school.  At 4pm, Mom left the apartment to collect Allita from school and walk together back home – a process that normally takes about an hour.  By all appearances, it was a “normal” Thursday.  Around 4:15pm, I received an email from the school that all students needed to collect their books and personal items and prepare for the school to shut down for an undetermined period.  That was the day when we first became aware of the immediate impact of SARS-CoV-2.  We had been following the spread of the virus and were aware of its presence on the planet, but it still felt surreal. Something we could hear about but not directly associated. Like the creature from the 1958 movie, “The Blob”, the virus was this growing, destructive and evil presence that was spreading, out-of-control all over the world. Suddenly it was here.  In our town.  I, of course, was unaware of the last-minute email from the school and poor Mom and Allita had to lug home 50 pounds of books and chattel that Allita had acquired and stored in her desk and locker.  Thankfully most of their 2km walk was downhill; although I did start to worry after a couple hours.   

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The next day, we were somewhat more informed, now having read and translated most of the local and national newspapers.  While Spain wasn’t formally initiating their official quarantine measures until Monday, 17 March, Catalonia was not to be outdone by the government and had decided to immediately and completely close all businesses, restaurants, bars, hotels, banks, etc. except pharmacies, grocery stores and hospitals effective Friday, 14 March.  Although, businesses open that day were allowed to remain so until midnight.  No wonder our mid-day play date with a school friend at Jardins de ca n’Altimira, a local hilly park with lots of fun bridges, was crowd-free and our choices for afternoon tea were so incredibly limited!  We walked home down Mejor de Sarriá and saw lines of masked customers standing 2 meters apart outside the pharmacy.  We tapped on the window of our favorite local German restaurant, BestWurst, to see if they were open and if we could purchase some dinner.  Little did we realize that this would be our last time eating restaurant food until 7 May!  Nor could we have guessed that this day would be our last day OUTSIDE as a family strolling around on terra firma until 26 May!  

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So, if first quarter 2020 started off with a bang and ended with a fizzle, then second quarter 2020 started off with a moan and ended with a sigh.  There were some highlights worth mentioning from the second quarter: Allita’s school did an AMAZING job with online education.  Classes were held daily from 10am until 5pm with a brief morning break and an hour off for lunch.  Looking back, we all believe she processed more work and probably learned more during this remote educational period than she did while on campus.  Every night, at 8pm, our entire family listened for the church bells and made our way to our little balcony where we joined all of our neighbors in applauding the healthcare and essential workers who were tirelessly and selflessly fighting the brave fight against this invisible foe.  We clapped, cheered and waved.  We sang and chatted – leaning over our balustrade to see their happy faces and “visit” from the required social distance.  We learned to be creative in finding ways to be physically active indoors without bothering the neighbors with our boisterousness and heavy-stepping feet.  For example, I re-discovered how to successfully hula hoop and, eventually, became the family champion of Twister.  Not to mention all the mini-golf we played!  My Castellano improved enough that I could successfully order an entire meal from the nearby burger restaurant and, after some initial surprises (“ummm, what is this?”), I became accomplished at online grocery ordering and delivery.  So proficient, in fact, that I doubt I will utilize any other method for the near future.  Lugging heavy carts of food home over cobblestone sidewalks after spending an hour social-distanced grocery shopping while wearing PPE is not a desirable task, I promise you.  We practiced our art skills, our music skills, our gardening skills, our lingual skills, our gaming skills, our teamwork skills, our communication skills, and so much more.  Finally, and perhaps, most importantly, we discovered that we have the strength, patience, kindness and love to be able to live together in a confident space with only one tiny balcony for weeks on end without any serious drama or emotional damage.  That actually came as a bit of a surprise.  

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All-in-all, 2020 has not precisely been the year I had envisioned.  The country is reopening now.  Life is beginning anew.  There are changes, yes.  Differences in how we behave (2 meters apart) and how we dress (masks and gloves), but we are slowly, gradually coming out of our shells, stretching our legs and rediscovering the world around us.  I have hope that the remainder of 2020 will be better than the first half.  We ate at an outdoor restaurant this week.  I went shopping in the mall yesterday morning.  We are making travel plans again.  So, we had a bump in the road.  More like a middle-of-the-intersection pileup actually.  But we all survived.  Why spend valuable time looking backwards and pointing fingers or lamenting over what could have or should have been?  Life is far to short and precious to focus on the negative.  As my grandmother used to say “there’s no sense in crying over spilled milk”.  

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What do my mid-year reflections tell me? Every day has something good about it.  Even the worst day you’ve had all year.  Even in a year filled with global death and multiple disasters (fires, famines, plagues, earthquakes, etc.)  Even in a year when many of your plans were quashed and your entire life was turned upside-down and inside-out. There is always happiness somewhere to be found and always something for which you should be grateful. 

And what will I be celebrating during our Sant Joan holiday festivities?  The joy of living, of course.  Every single day.  Every single minute.  Because, as 2020 has reminded us, the alternative is so much worse.