In the summer of 1984, my parents and I moved our cat and a fair amount of our personal belongings to Germany where we lived for the next four years.  At that particular time, it was called “West Germany” because there was a massive wall dividing the country in two parts: east and west.  Some of the many mental souvenirs I treasure from my childhood in Europe involve the various festivals or, as they are known in Germany, “die feste”.  Today, I see similar events of this type all over Spain (festa major) and I am delighted to be able to share them with my daughter and create more memories we can both enjoy.  

Another traditional European experience is the market.  There are flower markets, fruit and vegetable markets, meat and cheese markets, bread markets and markets that combine various wares across a multitude of stalls.  Some markets are like the U.S. flea markets where people sell books, jewelry, handmade crafts, vintage items, clothing and a variety of knick knacks using tables or temporary stalls to display their wares in a large, open plaza at a pre-determined date and time.  The most well-known of all these markets is probably the German Christmas market (Weihnachtsmarkt or  Christkindlmarkt).  They are so popular that now, nearly 600 years after their inception, these holiday markets can be found in almost every European country offering their own local cultural influence on the experience.

In December, Allita and I had the opportunity to visit a very good friend who periodically finds herself in southern Germany near Switzerland and France.  She picked us up from the Zurich airport on a Friday evening and we drove to the small town of Neuenburg, Germany for a long weekend visit.  Although, we had recently seen her during a layover at the same airport some months prior, our giggling, girlish chatter was incessant on the drive and even well into the evening at the hotel.  We had so much fun, my face was sore the next morning from all the laughter we had shared the prior night.  Isn’t it wonderful having joyful, fun and loving people in your life?  How lucky we are.  

The plan was to spend the weekend together.  Which is exactly what we did.  However, we also took the time to visit several of the different Christmas markets in the nearby region.  Our first morning, we went to the market in Basel, Switzerland.  Crossing the border from Germany into Switzerland was easier than finding a parking spot in heart of the old city.  Although Basel is a large and busy place on a normal day, it was clear that much of this traffic was due to the popularity of the Christmas market spread across the old burgh.  In fact, we later discovered this to be true for every city and market we visited with the exception of the tiny market in Neuenberg, which we walked to from our nearby hotel.  

• 

• 

• 

In Basel, little wooden stalls were lined up on the cozy streets and filled with beautiful, yet pricey, wares.  We were already aware that our shopping experience in Switzerland would be limited primarily to “window” as the other markets in Germany and France would be much more affordable.  Still, we did plenty of looking.  It was so lovely and there was a lot to see.  Because it was Switzerland, there was a large array of the most intricately crafted chocolates.  These candies were small works of beautiful yet delicious art.  Just stepping up to a stall filled with chocolate works was enough to take your breath away.  Even Allita, who is renown for her resounding vocals, whispered reverently “wow!” as her head rotated in all directions trying to see every possible sight.  We decided that some of the candies were too pretty to even eat.  

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Next, we visited Freiburg Im Breisgau.  Back across the friendly border and back into the line for the parking garage, we drove.  This time, it was much easier to find a stall selling the delicious Glühwein I was craving.  Glühwein is a winter beverage that is very popular in this region.  As a youth, we were allowed to drink it when we went skiing in the Alps.  It’s alcoholic, so there was some pleasure taken in the perceived naughtiness of consuming such beverages as a teen.  More importantly, it is warm whereas everything else is quite cold and, in some cases, numb.  From the first sip, the warmth of the rich, tasty beverage permeates every chilly corner of your body and restores some of your vigor. Glühwein is a mulled wine served almost hot that can be purchased red or white (I prefer red) and, at these markets, is generally distributed in a collectable cup with a lovely little holiday or local, traditional decoration on the sides.  Some cups are simple plastic versions while others are glass mugs with handles.  Each vendor has a different style container for their very similar beverage.  My friend and I enjoyed a bit of it as we strolled along in the chilly weather.   Allita preferred the “cacau” or hot chocolate beverage served in a similar mug but decidedly non-alcoholic and much sweeter.   

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

The following day, we were joined by another local friend and drove into France to visit the Christmas market in Colmar.  The border is a river, so crossing it was as easy as driving over a bridge. As with the markets in Freiburg Im Breisgau and Basel, this too was a sprawling affair with many tiny temporary stalls set up to sell various wares, including freshly prepared foods and beverages. Similar to Frieburg Im Breisgau, the Colmar market also housed a small festival area for children with rides and games.  The French market had some slight differences such as, some of the more expensive and precious goods were sold inside a warehouse-type building that offered more crowd control and security as well as protection from the elements.   Additionally, the market in Colmar was massive and stretched all over the entire town.  In fact, we were offered a map so that we could be sure not to miss any buildings or less conspicuous areas inside where the market was hidden.  Further, the food was typical French, with crepes instead of brötchen, many different types of cheeses and, rather than streusel, there was plenty of pâte feuilletée (puff pastry) filled with various cremes, jams and other delights.  We walked, shopped and ate until we were exhausted. It was a whole-body holiday experience for certain!

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

We were sad to leave Zurich that Monday, even though Allita was arriving late for school, which is always a treat.  We had so much fun visiting the Christmas markets but enjoyed even more the time spent with our lovely friend.  All-in-all, it was the perfect experience creating the very type of memories I cherish.  Exactly what everyone should be doing during the holiday season, right?

• 

• 

Attention to detail is an important skill I thought I had learned many years ago.  As a scientist working in a manufacturing environment, as a female walking alone in the late evening down familiar or even foreign streets, as a caregiver for a senior with ambulatory difficulties, as a single mother of an active, curious child, and in many of my other various roles, I know that paying careful attention to “the little things” can make a world of difference.  Mindfulness is even more important now that we are living in a country where signs and labeling are written in a non-native tongue.  

Although I will admit, the longer I am immersed in this language, the more it begins to mesh with English in my mind.  There are so many commonalities between Spanish and English that I frequently wonder if I am even still thinking in English or if I am instead using a mix of both languages to record memories on my mental blackboard.  For example, sweater is suéter, pants are pantalones and pajamas are pijamas.  

• 

• 

• 

Our favorite flavors for gelato are limón (lemon – for me), chocolate (for Allita) and vainilla (vanilla – for mom).  In fact, the similarities between English and Spanish are too numerous to list.  At times, these cognates can be a real benefit for the novice linguist.  Still, one has to be careful with assuming that something that “sounds like” a familiar word has the same meaning.  Sometimes it doesn’t.  For example, this tintoreria is a dry cleaner and not a paint store or anything remotely related to “tint”.  

Another thing to point out is that you can really dig yourself a big hole if you are relying on your “gut instinct” as your translator.  For example, I once told someone Allita was embarazada because she was too shy (or embarrassed) to speak to in Spanish.  Embarazada means pregnant in Spanish – not embarrassed.   Since at that time, Allita was only 7 years old, I’m sure you can imagine the surprised look on that poor woman’s face.  

A similar incident happened more recently at school with Allita.  As we sat together at the dinner table discussing her thoughts and impressions from her first day of Spanish school last year, Allita shared with us that her teacher, Mr. David, had described himself as “bizarro”.  She told him that was ok because she often thinks of herself as goofy and different.  He gave her a really strange look.  Later, she discovered that “bizarro” in Spanish means gallant.  Not bizarre.  

What you might consider “logical” doesn’t seem to apply globally.  Just because you think something “makes sense” or perhaps that’s what you’re familiar with from your home, doesn’t mean that’s how it works elsewhere.  Sounds straight-forward enough, but consider this:  this papelaria sells paper (as you might expect from the word papel which means paper), cards and stationary as well as school and office supplies (including ink and pens) and even some toys, however, it does not sell the paper you need for your printer.  To find printer paper, and even printer ink, you need to go to a store advertising “impresoras” (printers).  

• 

• 

The Pictum in Sarria is actually a papelaria that also offers a printer, copier, fax and scanner service for a very low price.  However, they do not print any images or pictures. Only documents. Although the name of the store includes the common abbreviation “pic”. In order to have a picture printed, copied, scanned or faxed, you need to go to a fotografía store.  They will also take photographs for you in case you need them for a passport or visa.  

• 

• 

Here is another tip:  just because the name of this store is Quality does not mean that everything inside is a quality item.  This is basically a Spanish Dollar Tree or discount store so you’re getting low-priced items manufactured in bulk and likely from China.  Not the hand-made, 100% inspected, detailed craftsmanship that the name implies.  Really, the store should be called “Quantity”.  

Although some places, like Re-Read (a used book store), el Periódico (sells periodicals) and Polleria (chicken store) are exactly what they claim to be.  

• 

• 

• 

Because I am gluten-sensitive, I learned long ago to completely and thoroughly read all labeling before purchasing goods to consume. This rule applies even more so now that we are living in Spain. Thankfully, most manufacturers are excellent at including “sin gluten” (Spanish) or “sense gluten” (Catalan) to indicate the product’s gluten free status. So, it’s not the trigo (wheat) that concerns me as much as it is all the other “atypical” ingredients about which I am ignorant. It can be really challenging to determine what those ingredients are because the print on the label is so small or the image doesn’t clearly show every ingredient. Unless you read the can carefully, it’s somewhat difficult to tell that these olives are “rellenas de anchoa” or stuffed with anchovies.  

In fact, this is such a popular ingredient that all but one of this entire shelf of olives is either flavored or stuffed with anchovies.  So if you’re interested in making a dirty, but not fishy, martini, you had better read the label carefully.

We discovered last summer in Casteldefels the importance of reading all labels.  Allita and I were very excited to find what appeared to be a favorite snack, only to discover that instead of cheese, we had purchased ketchup and mustard flavor.  Not what you expect when you pop “Cheetos” into your mouth.  In fact, the two words “sabor de” (flavor of) might be the most important you will need when grocery shopping in Spain.  So, if you are in a hurry and just grab a bag of chips, you might get home with Ruffles that taste like ham and cheese or bacon-flavored Bugles.  Or, you can buy something that says it is “natural” and it is so completely natural that it has no flavor at all!  Just salt.  

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Finally, it pays to be mindful of the world around you in other ways than just food and false cognates.  In the photo below, there is a building with two doors.  Over one door is the number 3.  Over the other door is the number 3.  How do you know which door leads to the correct address since they are both labeled 3 and in the same building?  You can barely see the white buzzer and speaker on the frame of the door on the right.  If you walk up to it and look closely, you can see that this door leads to the main building entrance.  If you want to go to the 1st floor (not the ground floor but the one up the first flight of stairs) or the 2nd floor apartment in building #3, you need to buzz yourself in or use your key.  If you live in the ground floor apartment of building #3, you use the door on the left.  Makes you feel sorry for the Amazon delivery guy, doesn’t it?

Taxis are not allowed to just pull over and pick up a ride off the side of the street.  In many places, you can’t even flag one down.  If you want a taxi, you need to find where they are parked.  In every few streets, there is a specific section of the sidewalk parking that is dedicated to taxis.  They will line up there, like they do at the airport, and wait for someone to walk over and climb in.  If you are walking around town, it’s a good idea to pay attention to the little blue taxi signs in case you need a cab at a future point.  

Interestingly, the yellow recycle bin for plastic also allows aluminum cans and milk/juice boxes but not CDs and DVDs or, apparently, toys (such as rubber ducks).  You have to pay close attention even when you are taking out the rubbish!

And, last but not least, be sure to read restaurant signs!  Almost all stores accept cash, but some of them do not accept credit cards unless they have the little wifi symbol indicating they are contactless.  In fact, this was an issue for an American passenger trying to purchase lunch on a recent British Airlines flight I took from London to Barcelona. Many U.S. issued credit cards don’t have a chip inside them that allows for contactless payment (not inserting or swiping the card into a machine).  Does yours?  

• 

• 

Hello again! December was a full month for us – as I am sure it was for you. We started our month with the lighting of the lights in Barcelona. It all began the weekend before Thanksgiving when some trucks appeared on the street outside our building. They were hanging holiday street lights all along the sidewalk, around the corner and down the next street. In fact, we soon discovered that colonies of these little construction crews were crawling all over Barcelona dispensing holiday lighting across every area of the city but particularly those areas where commerce can easily be found. Soon, there were posted signs touting the “el bendinguadador” or the welcomer who is in charge of welcoming in all the magic, traditions and characters of Christmas. He arrives at the ceremony when all the lights in the city are first turned on to signal the arrival of the “light in the darkness” or the coming birth of Christ. Interestingly, the holiday lights are provided by the commercial district organizations (various shops and stores located across the city join together in regional groups to promote commerce). So, in a way, it’s a bit like “turn on the lights and let’s go shopping!”. Still, they were lovely to see and spread a little holiday cheer around the city.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Above, the shopkeepers association of Sarrià, provided superb and delightful lighting that graced the main streets of the little suburb. Below, the famous Passeig de Gracià, with it’s plethora of famous designer shops and high-end boutiques, the Rodeo Drive of Barcelona, decorated this year with beautiful, graceful butterflies suspended among tiny rows of twinkling lights spread across the entire street.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Then, we noticed more and more of our local shops in Pedrables and those in nearby Sarrià were adding their own seasonal decorations both inside and out. In fact, many of the stores were literally bursting with holiday ornamentation! There were knick-knacks and spangle scattered all around the stores in our neighborhood. Everywhere we looked it appeared as though Christmas was bursting at the seams and would explode all around us at any moment. All of these little changes made us appreciate the season so much more and we would frequently sing carols on our walk to school in the chilly, dark mornings.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

We did not purchase a tree this year. Instead, we used cardboard from our shipping boxes to manufacture our own tree. We thought we were being really creative and clever – chanting “reduce, reuse, recycle” as we painted the sides green and hot-glued green ribbon to the edges. We even made a cardboard star for the topper! Then, we spent some time exploring some of the many local shops and discovered that cardboard trees are very popular here in Spain. So, unbeknownst to us, we were just being trendy locals. Go figure.

• 

• 

• 

• 

We also traveled a little in December. I flew back to Tucson for a fast and furious week to get some year-end business done and also to retrieve our winter apparel that we were unwilling to ship and unable to lug with us in our many suitcases. Allita and I visited a friend in Germany for a long weekend and, while we were there, the three of us explored some of the famous German Weihnachtsmarkt or Christkindlmarkt. More details on that trip will be available in a future post.

All in all, Diciembre was a busy yet productive month, as it usually is, and we concluded it with wonderful Christmas and fantastic year-end celebrations. Spending our holiday together in Spain was an unexpectedly delightful pleasure for all of us. Cheers!

So much has happened over the last two months that we need to spend some time “catching up”, as my mother likes to say.  First, I hope you all enjoyed a lovely holiday season and that your new year is off to a fantastic start!  Let’s see….where to begin….Thanksgiving!

Thanksgiving was unusual for us this year.  It’s interesting to note that the Spanish, among many other Europeans apparently, also enjoy turkey this time of year.  Many local holidays, including Christmas, are celebrated with this particular fowl on the table.  I was surprised but also delighted to discover this fact as I had been somewhat concerned with the execution of our traditional Thanksgiving meal without the main dish.  Problem solved!  In fact, the biggest challenge I had for Thanksgiving was the pecan pie.  Turns out, the Spanish do not eat pecans as much as Americans do.  Nor do they use heavy syrups like we do (especially, for example, that which is a necessary ingredient in pecan pie).  It’s a little like peanut butter.  Online consumer goods data shows Americans eat over a billion pounds of peanut butter in a year.  Slightly more than 3 pounds per person per year.  But, according to NPR, the average Spaniard eats less than a tablespoon per year.  That’s a pretty big difference!  It also explains the peanut butter isle in the grocery store.  There isn’t one.  There isn’t even a peanut butter shelf.  If the store sells it, the peanut butter is usually hiding somewhere among the many shelves of jams and Nutella.  

We purchased our sweet potatoes from an older gentleman who roasts them, along with chestnuts, in a large black metal grill / smoker (ahumador) at his roadside stand that is semi-permanently located on the street corner we pass every day on the way home from school.  He is such a friendly and jaunty little man.  He folds long pieces of newspaper into neatly-shaped cones into which he pours his warm, roasted chestnuts and hands them with a flourish to his customers (often children).  When the children hand him some coins in payment, he gives them a neat little bow and then he wishes them a lovely snack and encourages them to return again tomorrow.  If, like us, you purchase his sweet potatoes, he lets you pick the potato of your choice directly from the grill and then he wraps it in newspaper secured with a thin strand of hemp rope tied in a simple bow.  He does not offer any bags or beverages.  Neither does his establishment provide an eating area.  However, he is located very close to a small playground with benches nearby and a water fountain for both people and pets.  So, if you want to savor your purchases immediately, as many of the locals do, you are able to procure the amenities you need easily.  

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

What made Thanksgiving unusual wasn’t the absence of the bird, instead it was the absence of the holiday.  There were no days of school missed.  No time spent in front of a television watching football.  No parades.  No stuffing ourselves with delicious dishes until even the slightest idea of food was nauseating and we could barely keep our eyelids open.  None of those lovely traditions at all.  Instead, we spent the day cooking, as we sometimes do, and then when Allita came home from school, we all sat down to a lovely dinner together, as we usually do.  It was the most non-celebrated holiday we have ever experienced.  We did make some table decorations but they were minimal because we anticipated a minimalist celebration.  We did, however, manage to maintain almost all of our “after Thanksgiving” traditions.  We spent the weekend decorating the house for Christmas, including erecting the tree and organizing all associated lighting, which is my primary responsibility and also my most dreaded annual chore.  We also did lots of shopping – in person and online.

• 

• 

I will note at this point that “Black Friday” is celebrated here in Spain although not quite as fervently as in the U.S..  I found it highly interesting.  They do not yet appear to have a Cyber Monday or any other similar sales events.  Also, “Black Friday” sales apparently extend well into the Christmas shopping season.  Go figure.  Amazon is very active here in Spain with drivers frequently lugging their deliveries up and down the sidewalks as they look diligently for recipient addresses.  The concierge in our building was extremely busy the week following Thanksgiving as he first cleaned the entire lobby – top to bottom – and then he installed all of the holiday decor for the building while at the same time receiving a variety of packages and deliveries for the residents and, at one point, babysitting a stroller-encased child while the mother dashed away on a quick errand.  He’s a lovely man – I will have to tell you more about him in a future blog.  

Well, that wraps up November and Thanksgiving. On to December and Christmas…..

As a reader, when I find a writer whom I enjoy, I am a glutton – reading every book with a voracious hunger, single-mindedly devouring every word and savoring every mental image until there is nothing unread remaining.  Then, I become impatient for the next story.  When will he release the next book in this series?  When will I have a new episode of mental-vision to enjoy while I sip my morning coffee or lay in bed at night?  What is taking her so long?!  Doesn’t she understand that I am waiting here?  How hard can it be to just write another freaking book?!  I am selfish, demanding and easily frustrated.  If the wait is too long, I will often wander away and start the search for a new “favorite” author.  A new writer whose works I have yet to sample but appears to have the same potential to entertain me in the engrossing manner I crave.  I am a picky reader and I have high expectations for the quality of the material into which I invest my precious time and energy.  Finding written works that I enjoy can be challenging, which is a major contributing factor to the frustration and impatience I experience when I realize I have completed the last book in a series so the dishes are empty and the kitchen is bare.  

As a blogger, not an actual writer but more of an essayist or, using the same descriptive thread, the garde manager or pastry chef responsible only for the small, simple dishes that are tasty morsels but not quite a meal, I have to be careful not to spend all my time with my devices in hand, taking photos, making notes, writing down snippets of thoughts and ideas to include in the next blog publication.  The blogging process can be addictive and all-consuming much like reading.  The only difference is I am recreating events in order to share them with others – I’m seeing them again in my mind and perfecting the way they are arranged, described and presented in order for the person reading my words to be able to fully appreciate and enjoy that experience as I did.  I am the chef perfecting the dish so that it is plated attractively, smells tempting, tastes exactly as anticipated and is altogether an exquisite experience.  Well, hopefully anyway.  The point is, if I am not mindful as a human who is also invested in relationships with other humans (family and friends), I can easily allow blogging and all that is associated with it, consume me and ultimately detract from the very thing about which I am blogging – my life.  

All that said, to readers who are like me and have pointedly noticed my 6-week hiatus, I apologize for my absence.  I have been enjoying the recent holidays, traveling, cooking, spending time with family and friends and, finally, accumulating material about which I may now blog.  🙂  Thank you for your patience.