Festa Major – Day 3

The starting point of the correfoc

Today, we awoke to a gentle but persistent rain.  I interpreted this as divine intervention into our sleep depravation.  All three of us slept until 8am, in part due to the lulling effect of the weather.  It also helped that the sky was overcast making the bedroom darker and there was almost no noise from the nearby street.  All-in-all, we were refreshed and ready for Day 3 of the big party.  

The most electrifying event we witnessed in the day-long celebration was the correfoc that occurred on the evening of 16 August 2019.  

The correfoc

The plaza was just as decorous and populated as any other evening.  The dampness appeared not to be a deterrent to anyone or anything as the party was in full swing when we arrived at 8pm.  There were tables and chairs set up all along the sidewalks giving the appearance of a massive neighborhood potluck dinner.  The aroma of the various tapas and bocadillos available to share was almost too much to endure.  On a related note, I should mention that Mom’s opinion of the cobla music is that it is better when she removes her hearing aids.  For anyone who is familiar with the quality of her hearing sans aids, I’m sure you understand what she means.  I am delighted with the skills and artistry of the musicians although, I also wish their range was lower by an octave or two.  

Back to the correfoc.  What is it, you ask?  It’s a fire run.  Literally and directly translated from Catalan.  We had no idea what to expect other than fireworks.  Man were we surprised at our gross underestimation of this fantastic event.

Correfoc dancers

Apparently, there are several different formats but, in general, the basic idea is that many vibrant fireworks and other pyrotechnics capable, in some instances, of shooting jets of fire(!), are fastened to long sticks and held overhead while the colles of costumed devils progresses down a parade route through the city with colles of drums beating a lively march.  A tune that is now permanently stuck in my brain.

Dance of the Devils

The whole business started with the Carretillada or, as I like to call it, the Dance of the Devils, which involved a group of costumed dancers ranging in age from kid to adult who performed on a stage in the center of the plaza. Periodically, they would bang their drums and dance around with carretilles shaped like pitchforks shooting fireworks.

The dragon of Castelldefels

Eventually a procession of more devils, dancers, witches, fire breathers and three fearsome costumed performers – a huge Diablessa (she-devil), a tall black cat with claws bared, and of course, the Dragon of Castelldefels – blasted their way through the fiery skull curtain to start the correfoc.

Fire breather

The effect was a stupendous display of fire, noise and light.  It was awesome.  Particularly since the event included the active participation of the crowd of spectators.  Here we were again, dancing and yelling and laughing as we followed the progression through the streets and back to our hotel.  Our ears are ringing even now, nearly 1/2 hour later.  I suppose, I’m finally ready to listen to some cobla music with Mom.  Olé, Olé, Olé 

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