In my life, I can recall certain times when I existed on only a few hours of sleep every night for days on end.  In college (the first time), when I lived in Albuquerque and I discovered all-night casinos (Barb!), when Allita was born and as a caregiver for invalid family members.  Remember how I said Festa Major is a “big party”?  Well, now I can add “when I moved to Barcelona” to my mental list.  

One particular event we attended on 14 August was called Cercavila.  Various groups perform along an established route in a parade style that circles through town (thus “circle” and “village”).  The party started in a central area in the plaza in front of the church.  This is where the celebration is mainly centered with two stage platforms set up in opposition across the vast brick paved square.  There are stacks of gigantic speakers and, although most of the other businesses in town close for the afternoon festivities, those shops on the square or streets immediately nearby are hosting the lively horde as they eat, drink and be merry.  The square is decorated with various tapestries and flags hanging suspended from the church and other nearby buildings. These people really know how to throw a party.

On this occasion, we waited down the block, a short distance away from the masses, and watched as the procession approached.  Many of the spectators slowly followed the performers as they made their way through the streets.  They sang and clapped and shouted as each group passed by.  At first, we saw the Capgrossos, also known as Big Heads.  

The Capgrossos were able to look through their giant masks via a tiny window built into the mouth of the head.  Their costumes made them look like normal-sized people with gigantic heads.  They acted like clowns and waved and danced in the streets.  

Then we saw the Gigants, which translates as “giants”.  These costumes were much larger and more complicated.  Their internal structure was made of a wooden framework that was worn by the performer who crawled inside a fold in the long dress and hoisted the contraption onto his shoulders.  They twisted and turned around the street as they progressed down the street.  Allita discovered a small mesh window built into the front of the long dress that was used by the person inside in order to see outside. 

We watched a lovely costumed group perform the Sardana dance.   Several groups performed various ball de bastons or dances with sticks.  A group of girls performed the ball de cintes or dance with ribbons and a darling group of tiny girls and boys performed the ball de cercolets or dance with hoops. 

My favorite was the ball de gitanes which is a dance similar to the maypole dance in the U.S.  The colors of the costumes were vibrant and nearly as lively and beautiful as the dancers.  Each group of performers included a small musical ensemble called a cobla playing flabiols, tibles, dolçaines gralles and/or tenoras.  In one case, there was a bagpipe!  

It was clear they had dedicated a significant amount of time preparing for this event – practicing and exercising – so that they performed their very best.  We were so inspired by them that we frequently joined in with the clapping, singing, and laughing of the other spectators. The streets were full of joyous energy and communal bonding.